PV, Solar H

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

DIY Solar PV in Hawaii

A Solar company come by my home one day wanting to sell me a PV system.   My electric bill runs under $200 dollars a month, so I never really considered installing solar. The solar company wanted to install 12 PV panels for approx. $18,000.  With the 30% Federal tax credit and the Hawaii 35% State Tax credit, I would get 65% total credit so I would only have to pay approximately $7,500, but that depends on your taxes.  After researching the cost of PV panels, and hardware, with a total cost of $6,500, I realized something was wrong with these numbers.  Not only that, with the help of an electrician and my DIY skills I would still receive the 65% tax credit, with my total out of pocket expense at around $2,500.

My current electric bill averaged around $200 a month, times 12 months my one year estimated expense is around $2,400.   Over a 5 year period at $200 a month that would be estimated at $12,000 dollars.    I realized it was worth my time to put my DIY skills to the test.  I found the PV panels I wanted at a whole sale company, (listed later) ordered my parts and with their help started my DIY project.   This is the completed project. 
I hope this step by step, with photos will help you save money on your electric bill and allow you to enjoy the benefits of Solar energy.  I saved $10,000 on the installation, shorten my Return on Investment (ROI) , to 1.5 years, rather than 4, 5 or even more years.   

Looking South, I found the best place to put my panels so they would receive the most sun exposure.   Yes, I live in Hawaii and yes that is Diamond Head, I love living here, but one of the costs for paradise is 37 cents a Kilowatt hour.  
 Another view of the roof top.    I also created a drawing, measured out what would be the best placement for my panels.


I ordered 12 Sharp 250W PV solar panels, they were delivered with the racks, bolts and inverters to convert DC to AC, for a total cost of $6,500.   How many panels you will need will depend on the amount of Kilowatts you use per day.   Check your electric bill, get an average monthly usage for 12 months divide by 30 days.   Do a search on the web, there are formulas available to help you, search for "How many solar Panels do I need."

I have heard that you should stay away from the Chinese panels, they could  loose 10% of their absorption power the first 100 hours.   All panels loose about 1% per year, all panels have the same 25 year warranty.

Each Sharp panel is approx. 40" wide and 64" length.   The rail length from manufacture was 168" so the rail had to be extended.   If you plan what you want to do prior to ordering this really helps.  I knew I wanted 6 panels in a row, so the rail lenght needed to be at least 240".  6 Sharp panels 40" wide.  The dealer sent me the parts to extend the rail.   I gave myself an extra 7 inches on both sides to be safe.   No matter what panel you purchase there should be specs and installation manuals on line for that model panel, if not ask.   
My roof has about an 8% slope and I'm pointed South towards the sun, so I used "L" brackets.  Depending on where you live, there are estimates to the amount of sun exposure in your area, also on the web.  You can purchase larger standoffs, if you need for more tilt towards the sun.   The bolts easily slide into a channel on the rack.  I decided to do this part on the ground, it just made sense and was easy to do. 


The racks are only about 14ft. long, so I needed a splice which was provided.  Letting the solar whole sale company know what you are planning helps them with your order.   The splice fits inside the aluminum rack and is secured with  self taping screws.    There is also a ground strap between sections that is included.  I installed the strap on my roof but, I could have easily installed the strap the same time I connected the two racks.  
I placed the assembled racks up on the roof and set them up for a rough layout.  I needed to stagger the rows in order to fit all the panels.   This part needs a lot of thought.   The 40" sharp panels are also 64" long, and according to the specs the panels should overlap the rail by 6".   
On the roof I spent a lot of time with measurements and placement.    I also wanted to make sure I was able to lag bolt the racks to the rafters for a solid install.  I pre-drilled a small hole to make sure of contact with rafter, a little bigger hole for the bolt, then squirted silicone into the hole

My eves are opens so I can see the rafters that support the roof.   I drilled up from below, as straight as possible.   I put the "L" brackets about every 48 inches.   Setting the first row, I knew from the roof where the rafters were located, I could hit them every time from the roof drilling down.  I did make small pilot holes first to make sure I hit the rafter.   My attic is to small to fit into, which if I could have it would have been easier drilling up, but it worked out OK, from top down.   Use a string, to mark a straight line on the roof.   My roof is tar, if you have shingles, you will need flashing.  The brackets connect to the flashing and slide under the shingles.  You will need to do some research if you have shingles or any other roofing material.   

I used lag bolts and washers in eves, and 3/8 inch, 4" screw lag bolts further up the roof.   I drilled a 1/4 inch whole 3" deep, filled it with silicon, covered the bottom of the "L" bracket with silicon and bolted down the bracket.    I lined up my racks, which allowed a 6" over lap for the panels.   A good drawings of what you want to do prior to installation of the racks is very helpful.  
I had some left over Gaco Roof silicon sealer from another project.  I covered the bolts with this sealer.   This is really over kill, but it was left over, so what better use.   Not cheap, $240 dollars for 5 gallons.  

Drawing a map gets really important here.    There are mid clamps between panels, and every other one has a small ground plate (WEEB-DNC) that the panels sit on.  There are pdfs from manufactures explaining this, and the contact between the rail and the panel.  This piece fits below on the mid-clap, read manufacture comments, these are usually added to the clamp on every other panel.  See drawing below, the X marks the spot the Weeb-DNC is located.       
In the color pic above from left to right, mid clamp, inverter bolt, mid clamp, ground wire clamp.  The ground clamp connects the rail with an 8AWG solid copper wire, (code for Hawaii) there is only one per rail.  I have heard 6AWG maybe code for other States.   This is a continues solid wire all the way to the house electric meter.   10 AWG copper connects the Enphase inverters, this also grounds the system, but does not need to be a solid wire to electric meter.  So again plan for this.  



 

There is a terminator on the cable that connects the Enphase inverters. In the picture you see the connection between the enphase and cable that snaps in, two clicks.
The Enphase inverters come with an interconnect cable.   The cable runs under the panels and is strapped to the rack.   Each solar panel has two cables connected to the underneath of the panel that connects to the inverter.   The Enphase clicks into cable, look for diamond on cable and connector for position.  Manufacture says listens for two clicks when the cable snaps in.  Sure enough...  two clicks.    Make sure all these connectors are under the panels to protect them from the weather.  


Below you can see a green ground wire, this is a 10AWG that connects each Enphase together,  you can also see the one solid 8AWG connecting the racks, that will run to the electric meter.  


The 10AWG (green) is clamped to the Enphase micro inverters.   Each panel has an micro inverter.   I was told this is the best way to do this.   There are large inverters that handle several panels which are cheaper, but if one of the panels is shaded during the day, it drops the voltage on the entire string.   With micro inverters on each panel, there will only be a drop in voltage on the panel that is shaded.   

The Enphase has a serial number on it, that is removable, white mark left corner.  There is a chart placement spread sheet that you put these on, so that when you are checking the internet, you will know which panels are producing and which may have issues.   I forgot one and had to remove the panel to get it.  If you purchase the Envoy Gateway with enlighten software, you will need these numbers.  Hardware and software is $500, but really interesting to monitor the data on a daily, weekly, monthly or lifetime basis. 



The is the end clamp, there are also caps for the end of the racks, but they came later.   


My first panel down.  This is a two man job.   You can see the mid-clamp, according to the drawing this one has the WEEB-DNC on the mid-clamp, for the panel to sit on.   The Panels are not that heavy but they are fragile.   You want to be careful not to twist or drop of course.    
Note of Caution: The directions warn you, as you start laying out your panels and connecting them up, they start collecting and generating electricity.  So use caution when connecting wire.  


The electrician told me the shortest path to the meter was the best and it would save me money.    I took a good look, and drilled up from the eve through the roof.   I used both silicon Gel and the last of the Silicon roofing material. 
 
 
I purchased some outside, water proof electric boxes.   Planned out what I wanted to do.   Your electrician may do this part for you, unless you push forward to save time and money.   

I secured the electrical boxes to the aluminum racks with self tapping screws, ran conduit between the boxes to the roof outlet.  Notice green ground will be connected to circuit ground.   The copper 8AWG will be run all the way to the house electric meter.  

This is another view of the conduit going to the pipe running down under the home to the electric meter.   This was taken before the final panels were set in place.  


There you have it... 12 Sharp PV Solar panels.  All that was needed was the connection by the electrician to my home electric meter.  There was a box on side of house with cutoff switch that was added to panels, I believe that is Hawaii code, and electrician did that part.   I did create an online permit.   There are other forms, and other BS you may need depending on local code, but after it was all connected my meter started spinning backwards. (Now that was cool)  Not concerned with getting money for banking electricity, just wanted to save money.   I will update further as the paper work gets filed.   

I paid the electrician $900 for the hookup, thought it was more than I should pay, but had him on all the paper work for the permit and net-metering.  

I also purchased (extra $499.00) the Envoy Gateway with enlighten software, it tells me how all my panels are preforming, which is way cool.   Notice the 14.8KWh per day, which is 2KWh more then my normal daily use.    When Net-metering is approved, I can bank the 2 extra KW for rainy days.   When you think about it, if the meter goes backwards, is there an advantage for my situation.  When the meter is read each month, the starting point changes on each monthly bill.  

When I first hooked up in September, I was collecting about 14KWh a day.  As Winter came, (some of you are laughing) we do get less sun accumulation,  some cloudy or raining days only around 3KWh some days averaging around 10KWh during the week.    As you can see from March 2014, this was the biggest week ever with a high of 17.1KWh.  During the Summer months I created up to 19.8 KWh.  wow...  My electric consumption for those months was "0".  There is a bottom line charge as of May 2016, is $18.30, I can live with that.
I am really excited on how great this came together and I know anyone with DIY skills can do this.   I did NOT pay the $10,000 for the installation of PV panels, I saved that money for a big screen TV.  Ha.   If you like doing projects yourself, without paying someone else, you can do this, and appreciate the benefits of solar, and break even sooner.  I could have paid someone to do this, but I would rather enjoy the experience and build something I will always be proud of. 
Good luck.  
Here is the link:   
http://www.edisonsolar.net/index.html - I worked with Kelsey, he was very helpful. 

If you need assistance getting started, we can work out a compensation deal for my time.  I will not install your PV panels for you, but I will help you get started.
     
aloha  Peter

DIY, PV, Solar, Hawaii


Subject: LA Times article for Hawaii Solar
 
http://articles.latimes.com/2012/nov/17/nation/la-na-hawaii-solar-20121118

 Interesting article, obvious that PV is encouraged, but not to much, or the Electric companies loose money.   They are taking there time to approve application, if you just want your meter to rotate backwards, go for it.  If you want to sell your electricity back to electric company, you will have to wait, or pay them $2,000 to $3,000 to study the infrastructure in your neighbor.  good luck with that.  

DIY, PV, Solar, classes




Check out edx.org, there are classes you can take for free.   This class concerns solar, technology and to calculate power, and a host of other items.  Great for the DIY'er.. 

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

My DIY PV solar panel install


A Solar company come by my home one day wanting to sell me a PV system.   My electric bill runs under $200 dollars a month, so I never really considered installing solar. The solar company wanted to install 12 PV panels for approx. $18,000.  With the 30% Federal tax credit and the Hawaii 35% State Tax credit, I would get 65% total credit so I would only have to pay approximately $7,500, but that depends on my taxes.  After researching the cost of PV panels, and hardware, with a total cost of $6,500, I realized something was wrong with these numbers.  Not only that, with the help of an electrician and my DIY skills I will still get the 65% tax credit, with my total out of pocket expense at around $2,500.    If my Electric bill is around $200 a month, my one year estimated expense is $2,400.   Over a 5 year period an estimated $12,000 dollars.    I realized it was time to put my DIY skills to the test. I found a PV panel whole sale company, I will provide the link, ordered my parts, with their help and started my DIY project.   This is the completed project. 




aloha  Peter